![]() If that gear is off by one tooth when the distributor is reinstalled, the engine won't start. You didn't say why your distributor needed to be removed, but I can't imagine a mechanic repairing something related to it and not removing the cap to inspect it, the rotor, and the pickup assembly.īesides the inspection, there is a gear on the end of the distributor shaft. That willl result in a misfire that could be intermittent. ![]() Mitsubishi uses a similar design but has very little trouble.Įven if your car doesn't use an optical pickup assembly, the vaporized oil can condense inside the cap where it will short out the spark plug's firing voltage. That is somewhat common on older Toyotas. If your pickup is of the optical type, the oil film can cause the engine to stall or not start. Oil won't typically run out of that one, but vaporized oil can sneek past it and condense on the pickup assembly. There is also a lip seal around the distributor shaft. If it leaks, oil will run on the outside of the engine. One is an o-ring on the outside of the base. That just saves time and eliminates the possiblility of mixing them up if he gets distracted.ĭepending on the symptoms, there are two oil seals in the distributor. Is there a reason you are concerned? Most mechanics would take the cap off when removing the distributor so they wouldn't have to unplug the spark plug wires. Whether or not the distributor cap is removed is of little consequence. Line up your finger polish marks put in the bolts and tighten it up. REMEMBER to put a coating of oil on the new o ring when you go to put it on the dist and when it is being slid back in to the head. Don't fret about getting it in wrong and the slot only lines up one way when you go to put it back in. Pull the distributor housing out of the head and you should see the o ring. You may or may not have to unhook the electrical connections. Next using I think a #12 wrench take out the three bolts that hold the distributor housing on to the engine. I am asking you to make the position of the housing on both the head and the distributor so that you can line it up just fine to keep the timing set. The distributor when loosened can be rotated to adjust the timing of the engine. You can see where the distributor meets the head and the three bolts that hold the distributor housing in place. First, take some fingernail polish and make the location of the distributor. Make sure you have the wires correctly placed in the cap also. Remember, you want TDC (cylinder 1) and the distributor rotor pointing at the number 1 spark plug wire on the distributor cap. Distributor hold down bolts torque: 24 Nm (17 lb-ft). After adjusting, tighten the hold-down bolts. Set the timing with a timing light and With Service Check Connector Jumped and engine at idle speed.ħ. Connect the two pin and eight pin connectors to the distributor.ĥ. Install the hold-down bolts and tighten temporarily.Ĥ. ![]() The lugs on the end of the distributor and its mating grooves in the camshaft end are both offset to eliminate the possibility of installing the distributor 180° out of time.ģ. Coat a new 0-ring with engine oil then install it.Ģ. Drive in the pin and secure it with the pin retainer.ġ. 1 cylinder, then align the index mark on the housing with the index mark on the coupling.Ĥ. Check that the rotor is still pointing toward the No. Set the thrust washer and coupling on the shaft.ģ. Install the rotor, then turn it so that it faces in the direction shown (toward the No. All remaining pictures correlate with the following directions.ġ. Once that is done, then follow the directions. However, I noticed it does not mention that the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley must be at top dead center (TDC). Here are the directions which explain how to reinstall the distributor.
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